White Spots on Acrylic Tank--Photos
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White Spots on Acrylic Tank--Photos
Topic Deleted. Was benign fungus, killed by raising temps.
Last edited by hellocatfish on 09 May 2007, 00:51, edited 3 times in total.
Tanks: SeaClear Acrylic 40 US gallons, Eheim Ecco 2236, Eheim Classic 2215, Fine gravel & EcoComplete: 3 Albino Aeneus, 4 Green Aeneus (NOT Brochis) 6 Peppers, 3 Sterba, 1 Elegans, 10 Danios, 3 panda cories, 1 cichlid.
5 gal betta tank: 1 male betta
50 gallon SeaClear Eheim 2213, Eheim 2215, fine gravel: 3 baby goldfish (2 Moors, 1 Oranda in QT)
5 gal betta tank: 1 male betta
50 gallon SeaClear Eheim 2213, Eheim 2215, fine gravel: 3 baby goldfish (2 Moors, 1 Oranda in QT)
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I dont think that the white stuff on you tank will be Ich, I've never seen it form colonies on the glass surface before. If I had bought the filter from a retailer and the media had mold I would have retured it to them and found a replacement, although I don't know what American returns policies are like. The substrate pro media would have stood up to 15-20 minutes of boiling so than would have been my next move, that would have sterilised it. Your Betta's white spot doesnt really sound like Ich, I think by the sounds of things it could be a bacterial infection rather than a fungal or protozoan infection, depending on whats in your Ich treatment it may be ineffective,
Can describe the white growth more, is it a fluffy clump or small raised spots? it it localised or over the entire body?
Can describe the white growth more, is it a fluffy clump or small raised spots? it it localised or over the entire body?
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Is this a brand new Eheim including all the media or is it a used filter that has been idle yet still media wet?
I am assuming this is a used filter, media and perhaps tank.
I am presuming that this is a newly started aquarium of less than one month up and running, replete with fish and daily feeding.
Sometimes a small nick or scratch can be all a colony of autotrophic bacteria need to attach. Little colonies the size of a common pinhead can begin to grow and are most likely to do so quickly during this cycling period and they are basically analogous to growing bacteria in a Petri dish. They are deriving their nourishment from the fish food,both directly from uneaten food and the metabolic products from the fish. Your description supplies hints that bacteria colonies have preceded algae in attaching at these imperfections on the inside panes.
What kind of results have you got from your tests of the basic parameters of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, carbonate hardness, total hardness and pH?
A description of white spots is about as precise as "gunk on glass" and gives more experienced aquarists nothing to go on when trying to provide assistance.
There is not a direct relationship between the white spots on the glass and those appearing on the fish they are entirely different things.
If it is the case that this is all used equipment including unclean filter media it is likely that you have poor water quality, stressful to what are probably newly aquired run down fish fresh from the shop.
It would be best that youp place the fish in a bare bottom quarantine tank and deal with their health issues separately from the aquarium water quality issues.
Just wipe the inside glass clean, hydrovac all the substrate, and in this process remove 75% of the now roiled water and replace it with fresh conditioned tapwater.
Take your filter apart and throw away any carbon and or zeolite. Same with any floss or mat filter pads.
Before reassembling and turning the filter back on, wash all it's componenets, casing and biomedia,including the sponge pad if it has one in a chlorox solution and rinse well until all run off water is clean. Once the componets and media no longer smell of bleach rinse/soak all bleached items in water that has a strong dose of dechlorinating water conditioner. Let it soak in this over night although 15 minutes is probably good enough.
Replace all the carbon rinsing it under the faucet first until no black dust is left. Replace the fine floss media with new.
Hook everything back up and follow the directions for starting a new aquarium.
There is a fair chance your sick fish are going to die. And it is certain that the tank will need approximately three weeks before you slowy begin stocking it. Quarantine all new stock and treat for any diseases that may arise while they are all in the quarantine tank.
This is all Aquarium Start Up 101. It really sounds to me like you may not have taken the appropriate steps,stages and schedules when setting this tank up.
I apologize if I am wrong in my assumptions
I am assuming this is a used filter, media and perhaps tank.
I am presuming that this is a newly started aquarium of less than one month up and running, replete with fish and daily feeding.
Sometimes a small nick or scratch can be all a colony of autotrophic bacteria need to attach. Little colonies the size of a common pinhead can begin to grow and are most likely to do so quickly during this cycling period and they are basically analogous to growing bacteria in a Petri dish. They are deriving their nourishment from the fish food,both directly from uneaten food and the metabolic products from the fish. Your description supplies hints that bacteria colonies have preceded algae in attaching at these imperfections on the inside panes.
What kind of results have you got from your tests of the basic parameters of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, carbonate hardness, total hardness and pH?
A description of white spots is about as precise as "gunk on glass" and gives more experienced aquarists nothing to go on when trying to provide assistance.
There is not a direct relationship between the white spots on the glass and those appearing on the fish they are entirely different things.
If it is the case that this is all used equipment including unclean filter media it is likely that you have poor water quality, stressful to what are probably newly aquired run down fish fresh from the shop.
It would be best that youp place the fish in a bare bottom quarantine tank and deal with their health issues separately from the aquarium water quality issues.
Just wipe the inside glass clean, hydrovac all the substrate, and in this process remove 75% of the now roiled water and replace it with fresh conditioned tapwater.
Take your filter apart and throw away any carbon and or zeolite. Same with any floss or mat filter pads.
Before reassembling and turning the filter back on, wash all it's componenets, casing and biomedia,including the sponge pad if it has one in a chlorox solution and rinse well until all run off water is clean. Once the componets and media no longer smell of bleach rinse/soak all bleached items in water that has a strong dose of dechlorinating water conditioner. Let it soak in this over night although 15 minutes is probably good enough.
Replace all the carbon rinsing it under the faucet first until no black dust is left. Replace the fine floss media with new.
Hook everything back up and follow the directions for starting a new aquarium.
There is a fair chance your sick fish are going to die. And it is certain that the tank will need approximately three weeks before you slowy begin stocking it. Quarantine all new stock and treat for any diseases that may arise while they are all in the quarantine tank.
This is all Aquarium Start Up 101. It really sounds to me like you may not have taken the appropriate steps,stages and schedules when setting this tank up.
I apologize if I am wrong in my assumptions
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